Tannourine Cedar Reserve

This morning we drove to the Tannourine Cedar Reserve. Again , we climbed the tortourous roads along the precipitious sides of steep valleys incised into the limestone mountains. Again we pass the snow line into the alpine scenery and there are the occasional sightings of skis on car roofs and the odd skiddo. It appeared that, no matter how small, all roads had been cleared and were easily passable - there must be some lessons here for the UK's Highways Agency and local authorities.

Coach on Road

Throughout history, the iconic cedar trees that grow high in the Lebanese mountains have been valued by kings and conquerors for the durability and fragrance of their wood. Some of the cedars are supposed to date back 1,500 years and possibly even to the time of King Solomon but our local guide was dismissive of this. Lebanon’s wealth has been closely connected to the cedar, it has become the national emblem and appears on the flag. The original plan was to enjoy a 2 hour walk through this National Reserve.

However, although the roads were clear, the path into the Reserve still had a good covering. This changed dramatically once in around the locked gates. Here the snow lay pristine sparkling under the clear blue sky. The snow's surface was only broken by the occasional line of paw prints left by the local wildlife or at least those that escaped the prolific local hunters. 

We trusted the Park Ranger that we were actually on the path as we wound our way through the Cedars - it was only the occasional small direction sign like periscopes in the snow that reassured us that we weren't wandering too far off the beaten track. In practice, it was just a track beaten by the Ranger in his snow shoes - we tagged on behind often sinking up to my knees in the driven snow. The snow was so deep and the path too steep in places, that our trek was curtailed. After a brief stop to take pictures across the valley and to exchange the occasional snow ball we followed our tracks back to the cleared road.

We walked a short distance down the road to the Ranger's house where he fed us with sliced cabbage, a bean "stew" and excellent local oranges.

Afterwards we headed to our overnight stop. It was supposed to be at the peaceful Monastery of St. Antonio's where we were to experience the "serenity and peacefulness of monastic life". However, it was close for Christmas we were slept in a much more mundane hotel. Despite its refurbishment not being complete, our rooms had been finished - they were large with a big ensuite wetroom. A large old fashioned radiator soon took the evening chill off the room.

Our Night Stop

Before heading to a local restaurant for our evening meal there were a couple of hours to kill. Many of us walked up into the town but there didn't seemed to be much open and a 5 minute walk in each direction exhausted the sights. However, when I peered into what appeared to be a closed patisserie, a young boy invited me in and went off to find his father. He made the four of us coffee with small freshly baked biscuits. When we asked about his displayed cakes, he insisted on us trying them and then refused to take any payment for them - the Lebanese people are indeed friendly and generous people.

Byblos

This morning we head off to explore the historical site of Byblos, which claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in the world.

The ruins of many successive civilizations are found at Byblos, one of the oldest Phoenician cities. Inhabited since Neolithic times, it has been closely linked to the legends and history of the Mediterranean region for thousands of years. Byblos is also directly associated with the history and diffusion of the Phoenician alphabet.

Long before the time of Athens or Rome, it was an independent city state, trading cedar wood with Egypt in exchange for papyrus. Its name derives from the word for sheets of paper, ‘biblos’, from which we get the word ‘Bible’. We explored Egyptian temples, the Phoenician Royal Acropolis and the Crusader castle.

In the aftrenoon we took local taxis into the mountains to visit the Jeita Caverns. From the carpark we took a cable way up the mountain and then walked into the caverns via a tunnel. I've been to various others caverns at Halong Bay in Vietnam and on Majorca which have likened themselves to underground cathedrals. These were the only ones that could legitamally make that claim - they were enmormous - at their tallest them must have been 500m tall. The stalegmites and stagtites came in many forms - smooth, lace-like, curtains and coral. The experience was made even more dramatic when the powered failed and we were plunged, briefly, into total darknesss. We walked, awed, on the pathways looking around and up & down at the continually changing shapes and colours. There was a secondary cavern that we had to board a small electric powered boat to explore - again spectacular sights !

Byblos

The Bekkar Valley

This morning we left the relative warmth of the city and headed back into the mountains and the Beqaa Valley - in fact the 'valley' is a plateau bounded on the East and West by snow covered mountains. The area has a colourful history in cannabis cultivation and was one of the major battlegrounds during Lebanon's 1982 conflict with Israel when it destroyed Syrian missile batteries in the area. However, what we saw was mainly grape vines - many badly broken by the recent snows.

The road out of Beirut ground up a steep twisting road through the suburbs and, eventually, to the barren snow covered top with the inevitable military check point. Amazingly the Ottomans had constructed a railway up and over this high pass - apart from the occasional flat former track line, the only evidence of its previous existence was the occasional snow shelter that had protected the line. Although the road was well cleared, there was plentiful evidence on its margins of the depth of snow that had recently blocked the high pass and blanketed the country side.

Lebanon has two sets of mountains that start as a single range in the North close to the Syrian border, split into two that head South before rejoining close to the Israeli border. The Western range is only a few miles in land from the coast. This means that there is really only space for a single coast road and this seems to be subject to a continuous rush hour.

Driving in Lebanon seems to be more an art than a science or skill. The only rules seems to be that you only have to take account of other drivers in front of your car - once you can get your bumper in front, there are no rules. One result of this style of driving are the number of car part establishments that sell just the front two feet of vehicles.

On the way we were told some facts about life in Lebanon - I'm afraid that many of these interesting morsels are forgotten, but a couple that stuck are :

• There is one medical doctor for every eight citizens
• Children opt to learn either French or English at an early age and then all subjects are taught in this language. During their time at secondary school they then have to learn the other language !
• The various religions share each other's holidays - this leads to everybody having lots of holidays : 5/6 just in the Autumn alone.
• There are statues of the Virgin Mary everywhere because both Christians and Muslims revere her.

Our first destination today is billed as one of the Lebanon’s great highlights - Baalbeck. This is a gigantic complex of Roman temples - possibly the largest ever built. The city was known to the Greeks as Heliopolis – the city of the sun – as the Phoenicians worshipped the sun god Baal here. The Romans constructed a huge temple to Bacchus (detailed sculpture work reveals twining vines, poppies and wheat – symbols of the cult of Bacchus) and also the Temple of Jupiter, reached by a monumental staircase. Much of the building comprises of local limestone - we were told that dressed blocks were placed on top of each other with the top surface of the bottom block being wetted - after a while the two layers would fuse together. However, granite used for the columns and this was brought from Aswan in Egypt - it was towed on rafts made from Cedar logs shipped out from the Lebanon.

Today the usually spectacular site had an extra dimension given by several inches of snow. Whilst spectacular, as the snow melted, the slush soon made my light weight 'warm weather' boots sodden and my feet turn into blocks of unfeeling ice. At the end of our guided tour of the site, we were given 30 minutes of 'free' time to wander the site and visit its museum. I took the opportunity to go into the adjoining town and managed to find a pair of Wellington boots.

Anjar

As luck would have it, our next stop must have been at a slightly lower altitude and there was now no snow - just a cloying mud. The site was Anjar which was inhabited during the C7th and C8th AD, but was then abandoned soon after the Ummayad caliphs were defeated by the Abbasids. Thus the site is said to be a unique example of this period. What was visible to day was the Roman fortified town was based on their symmetrical rectangular layout incorporating graceful palaces, baths and souks. Located on the East-West trade route, around 600 shops have already been excavated.

Byblos Harbour

Back across the valley and up & over the mountains we returned to the mayhem that was the coastal road which was our path to our overnight stay at Bylbos. After settling into the hotel room, we wandered into the town and ended eating at a restaurant on the harbour side. It was a typical Med harbour with lots of small fishing boats tied up bobbing just off the wall.

To Beirut via Sidon

The night wasn't as bad as many expected apart from wild thunder & lightening rolling and echoing around the valley. Although the heat was switched off as promised, I awoke about 0300 and had to take off a layer of clothing -must have been the two duvets under which I was sheltering.

Our coach and local guide had returned to Beirut for the night, so we had to wait for the road to reopen through the snow. We managed to escape just before 1000 and headed down the valley, Before escaping the snow we passed the weired sight of oranges, still on the tree, with a covering of snow.

Down in Sidon we visited the Sea Castle built just off the coast. It was a bit of a wreck - a combination of age and the pounding sea. Today gave a demonstration of the force of the sea as big waves broke against the ruins, soaring fragmented into the air before flooding its interior. From here we walked into the souk and visited a an old caravanserai (which was being converted into a hostel) and the Soap Museum !

Lunch was taken at a roadside cafe selling a selection of kebabs - but they were much tastier than those supplied by our local chippies.

Back in Beirut we went on a walking tour through a city that had been considerably restored following the end of the civil war - many buildings were still pockmarked by bullet strikes. The orthodox cathedral of St George which was in pristine condition following restoration but there were still the occasional bullet hole in a couple of frescoes. There was a mosque that was built using recycled roman remains and had, as were told, regularly been changed from a mosque to a church and back. We had been promised a visit to the souk but this turned to be a Spanish designed shopping mall with very high end shops - how times change !

Our hotel for the night - the Bella Riva Suite Hotel - was a surprise ! It was just off the Corniche and I had a suite to myself : a sitting room, kitchenette and an absolutely massive bed.

To Deir El Qamar Baadarane and Beitiddine Palace

This morning we travelled a short way along Lebanon's coast and stopped on a cliff top close to a couple of offshore stacks - one with a large arch. With a westerly wind blowing all the way from Gibralter, massive rollers crashed into the cliffs and through the arch. It would have done justice to Cornwall in a Winter gale.

When then climed into the Chuaf Mountains up steep winding roads clinging to the steep sides. The draw back was that as we climbed the rain turned to sleet and then proper snow.

Our objective was the Beittedine Palace. It was built in a typical Arabic style with many arches, vaulted ceilings and small fountains. The former stables had been converted to house some impressive Byzantine mosaics. The palace is the venue for an annual arts festival and there were many photographs of past performers. It seemed to attract a wide range of well known performers - from world famous opera singers, through African & Indian drummers to the Cats musical and Elton John. However, unfortunately, I think my abiding memory will be of the cold wind, driving sleet and slush under foot.

Lunch was taken in a large restaurant - which would have been a chance for a very welcome warm up. However, the wind had been so strong down the chimney, they had had to extinguish the large log fire. The fare of mezze, rice, chicken & cashew nuts was fine - especially the rasmali sweet that followed. However, my illusion of escaping Christmas was further shattered when, after Christmas trees and street decorations in Beirut, the big local family group on the next table started singing Jingle bells and carols.

As we left the cloud base lifted slightly and we could see all the way down the valley to the beaches and - in the distance - a few very isolated patches of sunlight on the sea.

From there we travelled towards Deir El Qamar where we were supposed to be staying in a local guesthouse for the night. As we continued to gain altitude, the sleet turned to snow and the scenery became spectacular. However, we were on a single track road which made passing cars coming the other way entertaining - especially as the verge was rapid becoming buried under the snow. Evidently the place where it was planned to stay had lost its electricity when the snow brought down the power line. After much discussion between our Tour and local guides and the local agent's office back in Beirut, we ended up at a hostel that had been closed for the Winter. It took some time for our bedroom to heat up - after bleeding one of the radiators. There seemed to have been some mix up as the hostel were not expecting to provide us with an evening meal - just breakfast.

Dinner

In the end they managed to produce a hot & filling Spag Bol after which everybody quickly disappeared to bury into their duvets as we had a 0630 breakfast planned. There was some trepidation when it was announced that the power (and therefore the heating)would be switched off between 2300 and 0500. This was because the mains electricity was down as a result of the snow and the generator couldn't operate all night. We hoped that the roads would be clear so that we could escape from the mountain top village.

To Beirut

Why is it that mini-cab drivers won't leave the confort of their seats - even when it is evident that there is somebody in the house ? Rather than ringing the front door bell to say that he was there, my book taxi drove off and I had to ring the office !

The early Virgin train was like the Curate's egg - good in places : packed to the gunnels with people but free WiFi. However, I think that the internet connection was being supplied by a snail attempting to keep up with the train. However, it did have its compensations - across the table sat a stunning Gallic looking andronogous girl with short dark hair and large dark sad eyes.

The tube ride out provided even more enteratinment as a succession of girls attempted to apply their make up - the full works of lippy, blusher, mascara, eyebrow pencil etc etc - as we rattled and bumped along. It was a wonder that at least one of them didn't do themselves a major injury - must have taken years of practice not to do so.

The flight was with BMI and, for the first time in years, it was departing from Terminal 1. Once inside, it was indistinquisable from Terminals 2 - 5 - lots of rip-off shops and eateries. The biggest rip off seemed to be the WiFi connection : you could only purchase a whole day at the cost of £9.95. The building did seem to have much more nautual light and less people.

BMI have come along way from its roots - I still remember my childhood plane spotting days when its predecessor - Derby Airways - flew from a small airfield not far from Burton upon Trent - it's now the site of the massive Toyota factory. Back then all they had was a few clapped out Argonauts - now it's just another faceless airline amongst many many.

The flight was normal / boring - with a ceiling mounted video screen showing "The Sorcerer's Apprentice but the food was OK. The pilot reported that Beirut was windy and wet and we had a spirited landing when we apperaed to be caught by a gust just as we touched down : the pilot received a round of applause from some of the passengers - it seems Arabic countries : In Shala "

It was the first time I'd visited Lebanon - a country that had always attracted and interested me. The formalities at the airport were painless and the visa was free -despite what we had been told.

The hotel was only about 20 minutes from the airport and Beirut seems to a typical pan-world city. More road tunnels than Birmingham and representatives of all the major retail chains : Mothers' World, Costa Coffee, Body Shop, Bata Shoes etc etc etc.

There were 8 of us on the flight but the party will be 16 in total - some are already here and others arrive at much too early o'clock in the morning. We will all meet for breakfast at 0730 and, so as it's now 0015 I'm off to bed.

Trip Summary

This is the “Exploring the Old Levant”  trip offered by Explore, UK that took us through the Lebanon and Syria.

I've always wanted to visit Lebanon and, whilst I've been to Syria before, this trip offers the opportunity to revist places I enjoyed - like Aleppo and Krak de Chavailer and to see new places such as Palmyra.

Traditionally the “Levant” referred to the Eastern Mediterranean area that includes Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Israel and the Palestinian Territories.  This trip only encompassed Lebanon and Syria.

The pivotal position of Lebanon and Syria in the history of this region has yielded a wealth of fascinating ancient sites and a deep-rooted and complex cultural background to our journey.   Lebanon is a tiny country – smaller than Northern Ireland – yet it has played a huge role in world history as a crossroads and meeting place of ancient civilisations.   It is the land of the Phoenicians, a maritime people whose busy markets attracted traders from all parts of the known world.   Through the ages the Egyptians, Assyrians, Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Crusaders and Arabs and more recently Israelis and Syrians have all left their mark.   ‘Djebel Libanan’ means ‘white as milk mountains’, and one of its two mountain ranges forms the border with Syria, whose history is equally startling.   The itinerary includes visits to many historic places from different millennium following in the footsteps of Hannibal, Cleopatra and Mark Anthony, Richard the Lionheart and the great Saladin.

Why is it that I say just "Syria" but seem to automatically refer to 'the' Lebanon ?

Photographs

I will, when possible, include some of my snaps on here.

However, they will all be available here as soon as possible when I get back to the UK.